Northern Hemisphere visitors be warned! The diversity of flowers in Western Australia can seriously damage your wealth. Once exposed to the colourful Persian carpet of wall to wall flowers unrivalled perhaps anywhere on earth, an infection of lingering discontent may well set in which has only one cure, a return visit!

There is a vibrancy in the air which clamours for attention. Intense colours, striking forms, projecting stamens dripping pollen, thrusting styles waiting in anticipation, pollinators, like flower lovers, have never had it so good. As this assault on the senses gradually subsides the questions form. How did this huge floral diversity arise? What is to be made of it?

With a continuous 200 million years above sea level, the long simmering process of evolution aided by the greatest bunch of bugs, flies and mosquito pollinators you would never wish to meet has produced riotous competition. Every corner, every niche, every habitat from ground to forest canopy is alive with a silent uproar sending out a come-and-get-me message using every device known to flower, colour, shape, scent or sex. It is a bit like the old stock exchange trading floors but with everyone struck dumb. Frantic traders signalling to attract specific partners with casual buyers looking for the easy, rewarding options.

This region enjoys a kind Mediterranean climate of mild wet winters and hot dry summers. This glib definition tends to gloss over the variations which can be considerable, especially throughout the important winter growth period. Given normal seasonal rains and temperatures, the flowers reach a peak from mid-September through until mid-October. The warmer north peaks before the cooler south. There are still excellent displays to be seen either side of the peak season.

Is there any other region in the world where the displays of wild flowers in the countryside have turned spring into the main tourist season? One piece of advice, finding accommodation in the outback regions around Perth can sometimes be problematic at this time of the year.

MAKING A START

Perth is a natural entry point for overseas visitors and a good place to rest while the body’s confused time zones finally arrive in WA. Looking onto the Swan River, Perth is a clean, vibrant city with delightful walkways steering pedestrians neatly into traffic-free shopping zones. Ignore all this if you can and head directly for Kings Park and Botanical Gardens. This is a wonderful resource and where I felt the trip had suddenly come to life. Paths through preserved bushland offer the first opportunity to come in contact with naturally growing wildflowers including a number of orchids. The yellow cowslip orchid, Caladenia flava, which later proved to be so ubiquitous Eileen fell into the habit of exclaiming ‘not another bloomin’ cowslip!’ each time, and we found our first spider orchid, the carousel spider, Caladenia arenicola. A nature trail leaflet guided us around pointing out a number of important trees and bushes, like the parrot bush, Dryandra sessilis.

One of the highlights of the spring season in Perth, attracting many visitors, is the wild flower show held in the park during late September

KING OF THE DESERT?

Pointing the hire car northwards from Perth, we set off with high expectations and a burning desire to find Sturt’s desert pea, Swainsona formosa. This is surely one of the great stars of the flower world, a king in its own right. Enquiries in Perth had produced no positive locations just that we needed to go north. Broadly following a coastal route, the floral distractions along the way were mind-numbing. Back in 1961, the Brand government had the foresight to recognise the importance of the flora of WA and declared that verges from 3-10 chains wide should be left along all new highways for the protection of flora and fauna. Once away from the city environs, a good roadside verge was all that was needed to find flowers.

The exotic, bird pollinated kangaroo paw, Anigozanthos manglesii, featured amongst early finds and these were particularly prominent in the cemetery at Gingin where they are now protected. Well known flower locations, like Gingin, are worth visiting for the camaraderie. It attracts flower lovers and there is always a willing exchange of information on interesting species around and about. Later we found both red (A. rufus) and green (A. viridis) kangaroo paws and a selection of the smaller cat’s paws, A humilis. Haemodoraceae, the family to which these belong, reaches its peak of diversity here in the southern part of Western Australia with around 70 species in seven genera.

BEATING ABOUT THE BUSH

National Parks and nature reserves are generally good places for finding flowers but so too are the areas of undisturbed bush land encountered here and there. Such was the richness of the flora, there was barely any need to walk more than a few yards from the road. It is always necessary to be aware of snakes but in all the hours we spent trawling through the bush, we only ever saw one snake which quietly slid away. It is not just the ground flora which provides the colour but the shrubs and trees are equally colourful. In Mediterranean climatic zones in the Northern Hemisphere it is less usual to see the bush and tree flora painted in such strong colours. Myrtle, Myrtus communis, as found in the Mediterranean has delicate white flowers with projecting white stamens. Here the Mytaceae family produces deeply coloured flowers with equally strongly coloured stamens and many of the bird pollinated trees, especially in the Protaceae family, have strikingly coloured flowers with equally well coloured projecting styles.

CAPERING THROUGH THE KWONGAN

Now almost 600km (370miles) north of Perth, we were in the heart of the shrubland and heath zone known as the Kwongan. In effect it is a region of deep sandy, nutrient deficient loam which takes its name from an old Aboriginal word. Despite the poverty of these soils, native plants have adapted over millions of years and this region is especially species rich. Kalbarri National Park was our destination here and, regrettably, our stay was too short. There are a couple of organised walking trails which were tempting but which we had to save for another time. We picked up a species list in the park office and scanned it eagerly for Sturt’s desert pea but again we were out of luck. We asked here, as we had asked everywhere, if it was known in the locality but the answer was always the same, travel further north. Driving through the park was enough to get a good cross section of the species which grow there but it was the spectacular banksias, like the yellow Banksia attentuata or the woolly orange B. victoriae, and the grevilleas which caught the eye.

Sometimes it was almost a relief to find familiar old faces amongst the plants and the abundance of pea flowers made us feel at home. It was the superabundance which gave us problems. There are about 40 native genera in the south west and goodness knows how many species, so many of our photographs are labelled ‘pea sp’. Not only were the colours rich and varied, and the creeping species like the bright red running postman, Kennedia prostrata, seemed the boldest, but most of the pea flowers had a central ‘doorway’ in a contrasting colour. This ensures the pollinator can find the entrance. The solid coloured pea flowers, usually larger, are bird pollinated. Within this family, the shrubby Gastrolobium species are poisonous to grazing sheep which led to a programme of eradication. Later it was realised that this plant poison did not affect native fauna so the toxin, known now as 1080, is currently used to rid National Parks of foxes, feral cats and rabbits. Signs warning that 1080 bait is in use are posted for the benefit of dog owners.

BREAKFAST AT THE BILLABONG

Finally we reached Denham, some 800km (500miles) north of Perth. Still no sign of Sturt’s desert pea and still the same old answer...further north! Spring had come and gone in these warm northerly climes so we decided to return south. Setting off from Denham at 6.30am we reached the Billabong Road House 200km and 2 hours later where we stopped for breakfast. After downing bacon and eggs, I made the standard enquiry about Sturt’s desert pea. Eileen, by this time had become accustomed to muttering ‘not again’ on the side. This time the answer was different. ‘There is some growing wild in the back yard’ the owner answered and went on to explain that previous attempts to grow the plant from seed or young plants had all failed. This year, for some reason, one had appeared in a place where not previously planted. Running across the dusty ground and displaying a number of flowers at a peak of perfection, it was hugely satisfying to see and photograph this unexpected find.

Serenely content we sailed southwards now with our minds focused on orchids. The native species in this part of Australia are all terrestrial, the epiphytes reside only in the tropical forest areas. With over 300 species and subspecies in this State, there is no better place in Australia for the orchid lover. We had already encountered a number of orchids on our travels, the blue China, Cyanicula gemmata, and a number of spider orchids such as the crimson spider Caladenia footeana. Still the orchids are reckoned to be better south of Perth so that is where we were heading.

WANDERING THE WHEAT BELT

Leaving the coastal road at Geraldton, we headed inland to start our southward drift through the area known as the wheat belt with towns like Mullewa, Morawa, Wongan and Toodyay. They may be written large on the map but most of these were nothing more than delightful one hotel towns. In these farming communities, everybody retires early, it seems, so that the bar was clear by 8.30!

Our first stop was at Mullewa which is locally famous as the home of the wreath plant, Lechenaultia macrantha. This small prostrate shrub covers itself with flowers at the end of its branches only, creating a wreath-like effect. The best way to find it is to go into the bar and ask. Local pride will direct to the best specimens in flower at the time. It belongs to the Goodeniaceae family of shrubs and herbs which is almost entirely Australian. there are some very attractive genera in this family which have found their way into cultivation including Lechenaultia and the mainly blue Dampieras.

THOSE BLUE REMEMBERED FIELDS

A number of alien weeds thrive in the ideal growing conditions of Western Australia. None more so than purple vipers bugloss, Echium plantaginum. This species is not uncommon in the Mediterranean as a weed of wayside places appearing as single plants or more if competition allows. Here, known as Patterson’s curse, it grows unfettered and paints whole fields blue sometimes contrasting with adjacent bright yellow fields of canola (rape) or even fields of another invasive, the Cape daisy, Artotheca calendula. This yellow daisy is also busy colonising Algarve in Southern Portugal.

The white arum lily, Zantedeschia aethiopica, is another pestilent invasive but noticed more in the southern woodlands. The list of weeds is quite long and contains many attractive South African species brought in for horticultural purposes.

LEAPING SPIDERS AND DAINTY DONKEYS

As we moved south, the orchid finds started to increase. Even armed with the best books available, identification was not always easy, especially with the spider and donkey orchids. Much to our delight, we found that many of the smaller towns, like Kojonup, had their own flower shows which were particularly enlightening. The displays were made of wild flowers, including orchids, collected from private property and all conveniently labelled. This gave us the opportunity to inspect leaping spider, flying ducks and purple pansy orchids, Diuris longifolia, at first hand. Some of the better displays had more than 30 species of orchid on show. We were torn between spending time in the shows learning about the flowers or being out in the field finding them.

MOUNTAINS OF MYSTERY

Well south of Perth and relatively close to the south coast, The Stirling Range National Park is another area which displays great floral diversity. It also happens to be the only significant range of mountains in the southern half of the State. Not especially high, reaching around 850m (2,788ft), the area is well used recreationally and the only accommodation is at the Stirling Range Caravan Park which is mostly heavily booked in spring. The only bed we could find was to the south at Porongurup, leaving us a 100km (62mile) round trip each day. Like much of the driving in this part of the world, it was along quiet roads and there was always a chance to see some wildlife, or perhaps a wedge-tail eagle feeding on one of the dead ’roos at the side of the road.

The road through the National Park took us through the wandoo woodland rich in orchid species. About 50 species have been recorded from the open, accessible woodland including the unusual zebra orchid (Caladenia cairsiana) with its distinctive red striped labellum and, in a good season, thousands of the white spider orchid, Caladenia longicauda. The sheoak thickets along the creek lines had their own orchids including the bizarre dragon orchid, Drakonorchis barbarossa which we were lucky enough to find. One particular species which we would have liked to have seen, found mainly in the mallee heathlands, was the magnificent Queen of Sheba orchid, Thelymitra variegata, but this is one of the earlier flowering species, at its best in August.

Other specialities distracted us along the way, the lovely, white umbellifer Xanthosia rotundifolia known as the Southern Cross, one or two Andersonia species of the Epacridaceae family and Darwinian bells, of which there are four species here all flowering in this spring period and we photographed three, Darwinia oxyleptis, the Gillam bell, D. lejostyla and D. purpurea.

Grevilleas and Banksias, seen in many areas along the way, are just two stars of the world’s most admired family, Proteaceae. Here in Western Australia it reaches a peak of diversity and this corner of the continent is home to around 550 species, nearly 40% of the whole family, of which 500 are endemic. Largely bird pollinated, many of the species are highly coloured and take on the most striking forms like Hakeas and Petrophiles. If I have a personal favourite here, it has to be the Isopogons which look like exploding fireworks sending coloured streamers out into the sky.

A BEARDED BIRD?

One of the orchids we were wanting to see was the bearded bird orchid, Pterostylis turfosa. A hint from another itinerant flower lover suggested looking around Two Peoples Bay next to Albany. Albany was our next planned destination so we headed immediately for Two Peoples Bay. Once in the bay, the day was infinitely brightened by a first sighting of scarlet banks, Banksia coccinea, along the roadside and made complete by, after much keen searching, finding the green bearded bird amongst the equally green grass!

A RIVER OF WINE

With only days left, this tour was heading for its inevitable ultimate destination, the airport at Perth. One highlight remained with still plenty of opportunities for more floral discoveries, Margaret River. This area is best known for its boutique wineries where visitors can taste some of Australia’s finest red and white wines.

The route took us through some of the most beautiful woodlands I have ever seen, first around the south coast then by the west coast. The towering karri-tingle forest of the south support a canopy some 80m (260ft) above the ground. A walk constructed at Pemberton leads up and through the canopy to allow visitors a penthouse view.

Around the Margaret River area, the woodlands were every bit as dramatic and often with a well developed understorey teeming with flowers. This habit is loved by the invasive white arum lily, Zantedeschia aethiopica. There were so many stops for flower photography just en route to our accommodation that a serious conflict of loyalties threatened.

A TUG-OF-LOVE

For a couple of winos this was a dreaded scenario. This wonderful wine region with so many labels unobtainable outside Australia was also an incredible flower location. With only three days to spare how do we divide our efforts? Well, you can’t wine taste all day can you? So a schedule was agreed as follows; flower hunting until about 4pm and wine tasting to finish the afternoon. The flowers won and we managed only one wine tasting. More donkey orchids, Tuart spider orchid, forest mantis orchids, they tumbled one upon the other but the real highlight was to find the hammer and flying duck orchids. These tiny orchids enjoy a very specific habitat, usually sandy soils without much competition and often close to some winter wet without actually being in it. On the edge of wheel depressions along a sandy track was quite typical.

AND TO COW KICKS

Having started with kangaroo paws, I had better finish with cow kicks. Stylidium schoenoides, cow kicks, is part of the trigger plant family, Stylidiaceae. This highly successful family of largely annual and perennial herbs has over 200 species which are mostly Australian endemics with 150 species in Western Australia. They seemed to be around in most habitats.

Evolution is generally set on a divergent course creating the huge variety in the natural world. The dicotyledon trigger plant family offers an unusual example of convergent evolution in its approach to fertilisation rivalling orchidaceae, an even more successful monocotyledon family. Trigger plants look to have four petals but in reality the fifth petal had become modified into a column incorporating the style and stigma. This column retracts beneath the petals out of sight but springs up when an insect alights to deposit pollen on the visitor. Within minutes the column retracts ready to spring again in a repeat action and when all the pollen has been dispersed, the stigmatic surface becomes receptive to allow itself to be fertilised

Whether Stylidium schoenoides has the kick of a cow I’m not sure but the flowers of Western Australia were a complete knock out.

FURTHER READING

There are not so many field guides to the flowers of South West Australia as you might expect. 
Three of the most useful are:

A Guide To The Wildflowers Of South West Australia
by Simon Neville & Nathan McQuid

This is an excellent book but be sure to get the 2nd edition. The first edition is loaded with errors, particularly in the index. Some 900 colour pictures are used to illustrate the flora and the book is sectioned into flower finding areas. There are helpful maps highlighting good botanical routes. Altogether very useful but has drawbacks, it lacks actual species descriptions, the book is divided by geographical areas and species are listed just once in a particular area, whereas it may occur in several.

Simon Neville Publications 2nd ed 1999 £15

Wildflowers Of Southern Western Australia
by Margaret G. Corrick and Bruce A. Fuhrer

Another useful book which complements the above title. Again well illustrated but this time with some description of the plant as well as a picture. Arranged alphabetically in family order. 700 colour pictures, 224 pages.

The Five Mile Press, Monash University £26

Orchids of South West Australia
by Noel Hoffman & Andrew Brown

A huge and heavy book dealing exclusively with the orchids of this area. Over 300 species are illustrated and described. A distribution map is included for each. This is the orchid lover's bible. 

University of Western Australia Press, 2nd edition, 1992 £25

Brian & Eileen are running 5 botany tours next year (2001) for Cox & Kings including one to Western Australia 17th September - 10th October. If anyone is interested in going along with them and they are great fun to be with, as well as being very experienced botanical tour leaders, you can get brochures and other details from:

Text and photographs © B&E Anderson 2000
Graphics and design © The Alpine Garden 2000