In the days when the great plantsmen were exploring the previously
uncharted mountain areas of China, Bhutan, Sikkim and the like, new finds
were being sent back to their sponsors and were soon introduced to the
botanics and the 'great' gardens of Britain. Many of these, Rhododendrons,
Camellias etc.-were found in acidic soil and it was necessary to simulate
that environment in cultivation. As a result, peat, with its
ability to neutralise alkaline soils, was used extensively as the medium for
these plants and, as one would expect, they flourished
.and so The
Peat Garden
was born.
THE CONTROVERSY FACTOR: For many
years, the Peat Garden was a feature of the larger gardens in Britain and
long before the days when conservation gained importance, the harvesting of
peat for domestic use was a large commercial venture. Today, the depletion
of the habitat of some of the most endangered flora and fauna is,
justifiably, causing worldwide concern. Gone are the days when peat blocks
were transported the length and breadth of the country but there is still
considerable peat extraction taking place which will, if left unchecked,
cause the extinction of many of these islands' rarest treasures before the
next century has time to take a foothold.
So why then, do you ask,
am I advocating growing plants for the "Peat Garden?" As an
author, and a plant lover, I feel there is a sense of responsibility on my
shoulders to put both sides of the argument. There is obviously a lot of
concern from conservation-minded people about the exploitation and
overfarming of peatlands and I feel it would be remiss of me to advocate the
use of peat in gardening without at least making reference to the other
viewpoint.
One of the advantages of living in a rather dank and
wet climate (although even this is changing by the year), is that it is
possible, even advisable, to grow members of the Ericaceae family. They
have few requirements to prosper - an acid soil, moisture at the roots (they
must never be allowed to dry out), good drainage and a position in good
light which, although not a prerequisite to flowering success, is
nevertheless beneficial. The first three conditions, if not catered for by
your natural environment, can be manufactured to encourage successful
cultivation of this fine family of plants. If you plan on growing
Rhododendrons, Kalmias, Gaultherias and the like, it is imperative that you
test your soil for its hydrogen potential (ph). This can be done very easily
with a test meter or a chemical analysis kit, both of which can be purchased
for a small sum of money and both of which are readily available at
nurseries and sundries establishments. You should, if you are lucky, record
a ph level of between 5.5 and 4. Anything higher is likely to contain too
much lime and anything lower is likely to be too acidic. If you find that
your soil is acid, then you have no need to worry, members of the Ericaceae
family will happily grow for you. On the other hand, if you determine
that your soil is alkaline, then to plant ericaceous plants would mean the
kiss of death. The lime content in the soil would poison the plants, the
leaves would go yellow (chlorotic) and the plants, if they did not die in
the first season, would perform very badly before eventually giving up the
ghost. So what can be done
..As with most forms of gardening, there
is no simple answer. It takes a great deal of thought and a great deal of
preparation. In order to cultivate these plants successfully, you will need
to provide their basic requirements of 1. Acid soil 2.
Moisture retention 3. Excellent drainage and 4. Good light
.(this
does NOT mean full sun). To take these requirements a step at a time:
ACID SOIL As stated earlier, a ph of 4-5.5 is ideal.
Composted bark, pine needles and leaf mould, providing they are from plants
already growing in an acid soil, are excellent for modifying an otherwise
high ph level and will contain many more nutrients than peat itself.
MOISTURE RETENTION A soil containing the above ingredients
should, providing it is never left to dry out, have sufficient moisture
levels to maintain the plant life. DRAINAGE Very few, if
any plants, will cope with being permanently starved of oxygen at the roots.
To this end, a proportion of drainage material should be incorporated into
the compost at mixing time. It goes without saying that this too must be
lime free. ASPECT Good light, as opposed to strong
sunlight, will benefit the majority of ericaceous and allied plants. Good
planting schemes can however accommodate areas of shade when deemed
necessary and the whole object of providing shade is to ensure that the
plants (a) do not dry out and (b) do not scorch in the full heat of the sun.
Use shade wisely.
Having established that you can provide the
plants with these conditions, you can refer to the list of plants given
below. However, should you have determined that your soil level is too
alkaline, do not despair. Many alpine plants are grown in raised beds, so
why not ericaceous plants? It is possible to build a raised bed with stone,
timber or whatever else fits in with your general landscaping style.
Remember though, no waterworn limestone, as beautiful as it may be. The bed
should have a depth of say 60cm. This should ensure that any lime in the
soil will not find its way into the roots of your plants. The remaining
dimensions are entirely up to you. Consider how much fill you will require
to complete the bed (take into account the shrinkage factor) and then decide
the length and width of the raised bed. And now to the plants
..
Many excellent books and articles have been written on the subject of plants
for the Peat Garden. So many in fact, that to list a selection of plants
without duplicating the work of other authors would be nigh impossible.
Suffice it to say, that those with an avid affection for these plants, will
endeavour to grow as many of them as space allows and consequently have very
similar tastes and affinities. I will for the purpose of this article list
them in alphabetical order of genus and where I can, will suggest possible
sources for the plants.
Dwarf
Shrubs
Andromeda:
Dwarf
shrubs, ideally suited to the smaller garden or peat bed, which flower in
May and June. Ones to look out for are A.glaucophylla
from N.America with terminal clusters of the palest pink flowers. A.polifolia
(The Bog Rosemary) is commonplace in the Northern hemisphere. It has
glaucous leaves which are white underneath and amongst its many beautiful
forms can be included, 'Compacta',
which as its name implies is a compact form with bright pink
flowers.(there is also a white form of 'Compacta' which is equally
beautiful in flower), 'Minima' which
is a near-prostrate form and 'Shibutsu'
another compact plant with many soft pink flowers.
Arcterica
This is a monotypic genus,
the species being A.nana. A rather
diminutive plant from Japan with a profusion of white urn-shaped flowers
in April and May. There is also a form with red stems known as
A.nana 'Redshanks' which has been available for a number of
years.
Arctostaphylos
The 'Bearberry' a large
genus with many species from N.America, some much too large for the small
peat garden. Of those more suited to the smaller garden, myrtifolia,
nevadensis and uva-ursi
should be sought after for their prostrate habit and ground cover
capabilities. The 'Black Bearberry' Arctostaphylos
alpina is now better known as Arctous
alpinus, a gem of a plant for habit (very low and dense),
foliage (dark green, bronze and red) and flower (terminal clusters of
white urn-shaped flowers with just a hint of pink).
Arctous
(see under
Arctostaphylos alpina)
Cassiope
This
genus is so widely grown, that it would be impossible to list them. C.fastigiata,
lycopdioides, tetragona, selaginoides and
wardii are amongst the best species
for this type of culture, whilst "Edinburgh",
"Muirhead"and
"Randle Cooke" are extremely
rewarding hybrids, which will also take kindly to pot culture.
Gaultheria
This
is a very large genus consisting of shrubs from every Continent, many of
which are suitable for a peat or rock garden.I should point out at this
stage that the genus is listed as a poisonous plant. G.adenothrix
from Japan, is a dainty little thing with red stems, dark green leaves and
pink flowers which will spread comfortably without being a nuisance. G.cuneata,
which is my personal favourite hails from China and has shiny green leaves
and not insignificant racemes of pure white flowers followed by gleaming
white berries to match. This is a beauty, compact and hardy.G.procumbens
is one of the most readily available species. From N.America, this small
shrub makes an excellent evergreen carpet of dark green and bronze leaves,
covered in bright red berries throughout the winter months. The flowers,
white tinged with pink, give an excellent show during the early summer.
Another gem, although of doubtful hardiness in all but the mildest regions
is G.trichophylla with its abundance
of rose flowers over tufts of bright green foliage. In the winter, the
foliage can turn almost red and is covered with berries of the brightest
blue.Indispensable if you have the climate.Recent introductions from
S.America include Gg angustifolia
and mucronata, with berries in
shades of white, blue and pink and are ones to try for the future.G.depressa
from New Zealand and G.hispida
from Australia are other members of the southern hemisphere Gaultherias
worth trying.
Gaylussacia
This
is a mainly N.American genus with small and dwarf shrubs in it's
repertoire. One of the dwarfest and most outstanding is G.brachycera,
whose greatest claim to fame is it's foliage of autumn tints.
Kalmia
Much
in demand for the acid garden, most of the Kalmias may be a
little on the tall side for many gardens, however there are some
incredibly beautiful compact forms in cultivation and you should seek them
out. Amongst the finest is K.angustifolia rubra nana. This is both compact and
shapely and in early summer has the most gorgeous bright-red flowers in
abundance. Kalmia latifolia too,
whilst too large for most gardens does have some dwarfer forms. Try
"Little Linda", whose buds
are of the brightest red, opening to give bright pink flowers in the
summer sunshine. "Galaxy" has
stellate flowers, whilst "Silver Dollar"
has the largest flowers of all-and pure white at that. K.microphylla
is a true alpine species, only 15cm in height and a real treasure.Deep
rose coloured flowers in summer make this an absolute joy to behold. And
finally, K.polifolia, the Swamp
Laurel from a vast area of the USA including the Rocky Mountains. A small
shrub from 30 - 45cm high with rose-coloured saucer-shaped flowers
throughout the summer.
Kalmiopsis
Restricted
to a single species, Kalmiopsis leachiana
is one of the real treasures of the peat garden. Kalmia-like flowers of
deep rose-pink cover the plant in spring to the effect that it is
difficult to see the foliage. One of my plants (see Photo Gallery 3) has
bright pink flowers and much reduced foliage size. A very compact and fine
shrub. There are some plants from different locations in Oregon, the best
known being K.leachiana M.LePiniec
and the Umpqua Valley (soon to be named K.fragrans)
form. In the last few years, other forms have made appearances including
K.leachiana 'Shooting
Star' with stellate flowers and K.leachiana
'Appleblossom' with pure white flowers.
Leiophyllum
Leiophyllum
is related to the similar genus, Ledum , from which it differs by its leaf
shape. L.buxifolium as its name
implies, has leaves similar to those of the box tree (Buxus) but there the
difference ends. This small, neat compact plant has a profusion of white
flowers in the early summer and the form 'prostratum'
is smaller and obviously more prostrate but equally floriferous. 'Compactum'
shows all the characteristics of L.buxifolium but on a more
diminutive scale. All these make excellent plants for the smaller peat
bed.
Loiseleuria
The
Mountain Azalea...L.procumbens is a
real gem, that is if you can get it to flower in cultivation. This very
shy-flowering beauty is a native of Scotland and other parts of the
Northern hemisphere. A recent introduction from Japan has proved to be
more amenable in cultivation and this has been seen with so many pink,
bell-shaped flowers as to obscure the very tiny leaves. A must if you can
find a good flowering form.
Menziesia
One
of the largest of the 'dwarf' shrubs covered in this section (it reaches
1m tall but it is slow growing and well worth its place in the garden),
M.ciliicalyx is a deciduous shrub
par excellence.With late spring flowers of cream through to purple, borne
in trusses all over the plant this, together with its form
M.ciliicalyx purpurea will delight
you.Another exceptional plant from Japan...how do they do it?
xPhylliopsis
Bi-generic hybrids out of Phyllodoce
and Kalmiopsis and sharing the charms of both parents. The most
widely grown is "Pinocchio" with
long arching stems of pink flowers in spring. Other recent hybrids (and
they seem to be appearing on a regular basis) include
"Coppelia" ,"Hobgoblin"
,"Sugar Plum"
,"Puck" and
"Mermaid" all of which are
excellent peat bed plants.
Phyllodoce
The
Phyllodoces can
be either easy or demanding dependant, apparently, on whether they are
happy where they are! How one accommodates an attitude like that is beyond
my reasoning but they are certainly worth the extra cossetting they
demand. P.aleutica is a choice plant
with clusters of yellow urn shaped flowers and an excellent foil to the
many pink and white flowers that appear at the same time of year. P.breweri
from N.America, is larger than the aforementioned and carries pink
kalmia-like flowers of a bright rose pink. It can spread quite nicely but
never invasive. One of the easier ones. Another yellow flowered species is
P.glanduliflora, also, from the USA,
rarely seen in gardens but worth seeking out. It, together with P.empetriformis
are responsible for a range of natural hybrids which are identified as
P.x intermedia. "Drummondii",
one such hybrid has masses of crimson flowers in late spring. Vigorous and
relatively easy to please. P.nipponica,
a choice little shrub from Japan forms clumps in the peat bed and when
happy with its lot will produce masses of pure white flowers in Spring
xPhyllothamnus
Another
bi-generic hybrid, the parents, Phyllodoce
empetriformis and Rhodothamnus chamaecistus, giving rise to xPhyllothamnus
erectus and a special plant it is. Masses of bright pink
flowers, hanging in umbels from the tips of the branches in late spring.
More amenable to cultivation than either of its parents.
Pieris
Some
of the species and hybrids are possibly too large for all but the largest
peat gardens but there are a few that will light up the garden with the
incredible colour of their young foliage and the abundance of white
flowers on long panicles. Of those, I would recommend,
P.japponica 'Mountain Fire' with
brilliant red new growth, P.yakushimensis
whose new foliage is a golden-orange and the even dwarfer
P.yakushimensis 'Brookside Miniature'.
Rhododendron
Well,
where to start?........ If ever there was a genus that deserved the
accolade "every garden should have
one", then this is it. From the giants of the Himalayas to the
minutest creeping dwarfs, the Rhododendrons
have something for everyone. I could not possibly list every one suitable
for the peat garden in the limitations of this page and so I will try to
list those with the broadest range of form, flower colour, leaf indumentum
and special character. Be tolerant of my whims....if a 1000 people read
this (I should be so lucky), I will guarantee that each of them
will have their own favourite which I have omitted from the list. My
apologies for the omissions but perhaps some of my favourites may well
turn into yours.......and vice versa.
PLANTS ATTAINING A
HEIGHT OF 90 - 150 cm. (....and for the purists, I make no
apologies for listing a majority of hybrids).
R.yakushimanum....what
a stunner this is.
It's got everything. Silvery new growth, dark green leathery leaves with
orange-brown indumentum on the underside, compact habit, dome shaped,
flowers in trusses changing from pink in bud, to white suffused with pink
and then to white.No wonder this has parented a vast range of new hybrids.
A caveat here though. This plant must be deadheaded
annually to get the best results. I say must because it is recommended
that all Rhododendrons should be deadheaded annually...but who has the
time to do this..and anyway, I've never found it to be absolutely
necessary, other than with R.yakushimanum. Of
the hybrids, 'Bambi' has the leaf indumentum
(not all the offspring have it) and flowers which are deep rose-pink in
bud, opening to rose-pink and ageing to cream suffused with pink. Very
floriferous and long lasting. 'Caroline Allbrook'
has frilly lavender flowers and is probably the best of this colour.
'Titian Beauty' is a classic red and is very
free flowering with excellent indumentum, while 'Grumpy'
is a pale yellow to cream form.There are a couple of white flowered
hybrids but they haven't got a hope of competing with the species. Other
good garden plants of this height include R.'Nancy
Evans' a free-flowering hybrid raised in America and bearing
trusses of the deepest yellow bells and is, in my opinion, one of the best
yellows around. A
particular favourite of mine
R.'Bow Bells' has a good compact habit, new
growth which is bronze in colour and the largest, wide open flowers, of
the richest pink, borne in loose trusses throughout April.......... and
finally for this section, you could do worse than try some of the
evergreen Azaleas (again with no apologies to the purists) but they are
too numerous to name and are generally available from garden centres etc.
PLANTS
ATTAINING A HEIGHT BETWEEN 30cm and 90cm
There are a
number of Rhododendrons that are compact and stay well within the bounds
of a raised bed. One of the best, R.'Curlew'
is
studded with lemon coloured flowers for weeks on end in spring. It is low
growing and maintains a height c.40cm but with a much wider spread (see
photograph at top of page). R.'Blue Tit'
is an early flowering form upto 1m in height with lovely lavender blue
flowers which become deeper as they age. R.'Pink
Drift' is
a little beauty of compact habit which covers itself with rose-pink buds
opening to soft lavender in early spring. One of the earliest dwarf shrubs
is R.'Praecox' which flowers for me
in February and is awash with deep purple flowers. Of the whites,
R.'Arctic Tern' excels. It is a
hybrid of R.trichostoma and carries
its many small white flowers in compact trusses. Upto 90cm and later
flowering than most. R.primuliflorum,
is without doubt, a must for every peat garden. Clear pink primula-like
flowers cover the plant in late spring. I first saw this in an AGS show
and fell in love with it immediately. Not too difficult but does require
excellent drainage.
PLANTS ATTAINING A
HEIGHT LESS THAN 30cm
There are a number of plants
that will stay compact and low growing for many years. R.
'Alpine Gem' attains a height of 15cm and
has many deep pink flowers in May. R.campylogynum
is an unusual shrub with sempervivum-like rosettes but the real beauty of
this is in the drooping thimble-shaped flowers which adorn it throughout
early summer. R.campylogynum 'Claret'
is a real treasure, reaching 40cmin time. My own personal favourite in the
smaller class has got to be R.cephalanthum
crebreflorum ,
a stunning plant with daphne-like cream flowers suffused with the palest
pink. A real show-stopper. The prostrateR.radicans
is another favourite forming mats of shiny foliage no more than 10cm high
and carrying disproportionately large purple flowers in early summer. There
are so many rhododendrons to choose from that I have barely scratched the
surface of what is available. Check your local nurseries for established
favourites and for the new hybrids which are now regularly being
introduced.
Rhodothamnus
One of the few members of the
Ericaceae that will tolerate lime in its diet. R.chamaecistus
grows on limestone formations in the Alps and forms carpets of tiny leaves
covered in large, flat, rich pink flowers. This is not an easy plant to
grow but well worth the effort. A delight in the peat bed.
Vaccinium
This is my final listing of
ericaceous shrubs and I could not hope to do justice to the many wonderful
plants that have been introduced from North & South America. Of the
three I grow, V.macrocarpon 'Hamilton'
is a carpeter with a vigour but it can be restrained with judicial
pruning. The flowers are small and insignificant but the huge red berries
are plentiful. V.moupinense is
similar to V.delavayi but has
mahogany coloured flowers and does not (in my experience) reach more than
60 cms in height. Autumn tinted foliage is an added extra. The cowberry
V.vitis-idaea is a dwarf creeping
shrub and its miniature form V.vitis-idaea
minus is a little gem, equally at home in a trough or in the
peat bed.
The
above list is far from comprehensive and there are many more dwarf shrubs
that will happilly grow in a peat bed. I have restricted my list to
members of the Ericaceae but you must experiment and grow what you enjoy.
As I said earlier, these are my personal favourites.....I would be pleased
to hear about yours. Happy peat gardening.
If,as a result of this article,
I have encouraged anyone to build a peat bed, or introduce new plants to
their existing garden, then my work will have been worthwhile. I make no
claims to being an "expert" - I am an enthusiast like
yourselves. There may well be plants that you grow, not listed above, that
you would like other people to know about....you may have some photographs
that illustrate these plants....you may disagree with some of my comments.
To this end, I would welcome any feedback from you. Please feel free to
send your comments, good or bad and I will publish them and hopefully
invite discussion.Thank you.
PHOTOGRAPHS ACCOMPANYING THE TEXT Andromeda
polifolia 'Nikko' Gaultheria cuneata xPhylliopsis hillieri
'Pinnochio' Phyllodoce caerulea Rhododendron 'Bow Bells' Rhododendron
nakaharae Rhododendron yakushimanum A View Of The Peat Garden ©
Charles Johnson 1998
All other photographs ©
Alan Grainger 1998
Plant Associations In The
Peat Garden by Charles Johnson
Nurseries
supplying plants mentioned in the text
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